I’ve been cooking up a storm since we got home from Cleveland last Wednesday – I just haven’t been blogging about it. I made hummus and fresh pita bread for our friends’ New Year’s party – the latter was perfect, unlike earlier pita efforts. We were both somewhat worse for wear on Saturday, and the Barefoot Contessa’s fresh pea soup was just the thing for our troubled stomachs. On Sunday, I made the first recipe from my new Essential New York Times Cookbook: mushroom caps stuffed with sausage and duxelles – simple but incredibly flavorful, and destined to be on our table many times in the future. I also took on the second recipe from my 25 Recipes list: goulash.
I’m not sure how goulash got on our list exactly. I approached it with a bit of trepidation, as Shane grew up in a city whose cuisine is as influenced by Eastern Europeans as my hometown’s is by the Swedes.
I was concerned because there seems to be a great deal of disagreement about what constitutes authentic Hungarian Gulyás. Many recipes call for tomatoes, while others swear that goulash never contains tomatoes. Some recipes call for potatoes to thicken the stew. Others suggest serving the stew over dumplings or egg noodles. The goulash I remember from my childhood always involved ground beef and elbow macaroni, and is apparently known as American Chop Suey in some parts of the country..
Fortunately for me, Shane doesn’t have any particular memory of a specific goulash, so I was safe to proceed. The one thing all goulash recipes seem to agree on is the paprika, which gives goulash its characteristic color and savory smoky flavor. The paprika differentiates goulash from more pedestrian (but no less delicious) beef stew. In this goulash, the paprika is cooked in bacon fat already used to brown your beef and saute onions and garlic.
Add everything to the pot – the browned beef and bacon, plus stock, diced red peppers, tomato paste (oh, the heresy!), seasonings, and water (or beer) enough to get the right consistency. Let it all simmer for an hour or so – enough time for me to shred and then prepare some pasta – and you’ve got a warm and hearty dinner. I was going to add ‘flavorful’ to that list of adjectives, but I was honestly underwhelmed by this recipe. It was good but not remarkable, which is probably the case with most comfort foods.
Either way, Mina was happy to supervise, Shane was happy to eat it up, and I’ll be happy to make it again. Maybe we’ll try a more authentic recipe next time.
Goulash from Smitten Kitchen – 1/4 recipe with egg noodles and some bread was enough for three portions
0 thoughts on “25 Recipes #2: Goulash”
Wow, this looks incredible. I wasn’t super duper thrilled with the last goulash recipe I tried (Time Life cookbook circa 1963), so I think I’ll give this one a whirl next. Thanks!
I bet there are several versions of “authentic” goulash–probably regional differences. It looks delicious.
I wish I could say this post inspired me to make some goulash of my own, but really it just inspired me to remind my boyfriend that we’ve been meaning to get a bunch of his friends to come to our neighborhood for $6 Monday-night goulash at Cafe Steinhof. Not tonight – we’re having leftover “breakfast risotto” made with spicy turkey sausage for dinner, and then making some red lentil + yellow split pea soup – but maybe next week.
Also, I can confirm that the ground beef + elbow macaroni dish you’re talking about is indeed called “American chop suey” in New England – or at least, that’s what my mom always called it when I was a kid.